![]() If you can get a 100k wire wound pot, about 1 watt, you could wire this in and set it to the highest value and dial your way down slowly.monitor it all the way, and don't go all the way down, put a 1k resistor in series to limit the bottom value to prevent a sudden burn up.īest of luck, you might just get lucky on another poster with the goods.īTW, for what it's worth, maybe taking a photo at high resolution of a board when it's still new would be insurance in case it brewed up at a later date. It's carrying current, so going high on the ohms initially will be better than going low.low will pass even more current and the next item in line will suffer. If all else fails, I would attempt to trace the circuit path going to the resistor and also where the path leads to, this will give you an idea of what the resistor is doing. but if you don't get any further information I would try this route, but monitor the output of whatever the board does, and keep an eye on any smoke starting.switch off immediately and have a think.Īn old trick, used by a friend of mine when going in blind in such a case, was to put a small bead of candle wax on the resistor, and as soon as the wax starts to melt, it's getting hot, and that's long before it smokes. It's highly unlikely that a high ohm value for a starter will pass any large current, whatever it was, and passing a load enough to burn out a resistor is more than just signal strength. The fact that the resistor burned means it is carrying too big a load and will fail again if you use the same type, eg 1/4 watt.I would start off with a 1/2 watt and go high on the value.about a 100K.Īs it appears to carry more than just a signal, due to the burn out, going high on the value would probably not make it work, but you can progressively come down in the ohm value until something starts to happen. The end band doesn't matter, it's the tolerance, looks like gold. It looks like the middle band is a dark colour and the two bands next to it are lighter brown, so that could be brown black brown. The resolution is still very grainy and not very clear.Photoshop might be able to enhance the colours a bit if you have it, but without the pixels it's a slim chance. About a year ago, I tried to get repair parts for a solar mig welder, and found information their website. ![]() Hi Inky, I saved the pic of the board to My Pictures as a Jpeg file, this enabled me to blow the pic up. Try doing a search online for 'Solar Welders'. I have the parts off that went bad but this one resistor is burnt to bad to read the color bands on it and I do not have a schematic so If anyone here has one of these welders I listed and can look at this part I have a red arrow going to in the photo on their board please list it here so I can replace it. Call us at 1-800-USA-WELD (80) or send an e-mail if you have any questions on our items.I have a Solar 2175 that is Kaput do to the power board failing. ![]() Buy in confidence from HTP America, Inc., your total welding specialist since 1981, where for over 30 years all we have sold are quality welding supplies at affordable prices. Go to our store and see all the other items we have for sale: If you need any other hard to find welder parts that are not listed, send us an e-mail with a digital photo- we might have just what you need. Since this is an electrical part, there are no returns on this part. Please note your original knob will require modifications to get it to fit on on our potentiometer, since the shafts are different. A USAWELD wire feed potentiometer or heat potentiometer which is our replacement for the Solar wire feed or heat poteniometer in the following welders: Solar 2120 117-043 Solar 2160 117-067 Solar 2175 117-039 Solar 2225 117-035 Solar 117-007 Solar only sells this part as a harness assembly for over 5 times the price of just the potentiometer only. Item: 141904737801 Solar Mig Welder Heat or Wire Feed Potentiometer. Location: Elk Grove Village, Illinois, US,
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